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Virtually Horses
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The Gear |
Saddle Fitting | ||
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This article is compliments of Tack In The
Box.
Fitting Horse
and Rider
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How can you be sure the saddle fits the horse?Balance
While there are many subtleties of saddle
fit you can always be sure you're on the right track when the previously
mentioned balance is present. Different brands and models of saddles may
look quite different from each other when correctly fitted.
Consequently, if you try to fit all saddles by applying certain rules
that you've doubtless read in the myriads of saddle fit articles
published in recent years, such as, cantle should be X inches higher
than the pommel or, you should have X fingers' clearance at the pommel -
it becomes very confusing.
Some saddles are designed to fit with the cantle substantially higher than the pommel (2" or even more) while others are designed to be nearly level, front to back. No saddle is designed to sit lower in the cantle than the pommel, however, horses with a low back conformation will sometimes be correctly fitted when the cantle does indeed sit lower than the pommel. These horses are always a challenge to ride for they can rarely be fitted with a gusset type panel and artificially raising the cantle with a "bump" pad or other device may result in a badly damaged saddle tree and is most always uncomfortable for the horse. First things first - you must ascertain
exactly where on the horse's body the saddle should sit. Horses having a
lot of Thoroughbred blood are rarely difficult to decide where the saddle
should sit - they have a pronounced indentation right behind the shoulder
blade and if you try to place the saddle anywhere else it will quickly
find its way to this "sweet spot." Unfortunately, many Warmbloods as well
as other breeds such as Arabians and Morgans, frequently lack this clearly
defined area. The saddle should be placed immediately behind the horse's
scapula - not on top of it. To determine where the scapula is located,
have someone lead your horse for you while you walk beside him with your
hand on the shoulder blade. As he moves it will rotate about its axis and
allow you to visualize its location. Place your saddle just behind the
scapula and girth it sufficiently to hold it securely in place. Keeping the rule of balance uppermost in your mind, stand to the side of your horse and draw an imaginary line through the center of the stirrup bar, perpendicular to the ground. Draw a second imaginary line through the deepest part of the seat, again perpendicular to the ground. As mentioned before, the deepest part of the seat should be approximately 6-7" back from the center of the stirrup bar.
The illustration at left
The last illustration of this series shows a saddle that is too wide and has the deepest part of the seat too close to the stirrup bar. The former will place your legs too far to the front while the latter will tend to tip you onto your crotch. Width
Once you've ascertained that the balance
is correct, check the width of the tree by stepping to the front of the
saddle and observing the fit along the horse's barrel. The "welt" of the
saddle (the round piece of leather that runs across the pommel and down
either side) will usually correspond fairly accurately to the shape of
the tree of the saddle. If you lay a riding whip along the horse's body,
starting at the top of his withers and right in front of the saddle, you
can compare the actual angle of his body to that of the tree of the
saddle. If the two angles are very nearly identical, the width is
correct. If the two lines converge over the top of the horse's back, the
saddle is too wide, while it's too narrow if the lines diverge.
A word of caution here: It is the lesser evil if the saddle is slightly (and I do mean slightly) too narrow than if it is slightly too wide. A very mildly narrow saddle is an inconvenience to the rider because it will tend to cause his balance to be a bit too far back but nonetheless results in an even pressure along the panels of the saddle and no discomfort to the horse. A slightly wide saddle will increase the pressure in the area of the bars of the tree and result in discomfort on the part of the horse, who will usually react by tightening his shoulders and shortening the reach of the forelegs. Bridging
"Bridging" is the result of a panel that
is not contoured to fit the shape of the horse's back. It has become
very popular in recent years to increase the flocking in the rear
portion of the saddle panel which raises the cantle and helps to
position the rider's pelvis correctly in the seat.
Unfortunately, as you increase the thickness of the panel by adding a gusset, the entire panel becomes more and more flat from front to back. Turn your saddle upside down and look at the panel - does it have a slight "banana" shaped curve or is it relatively straight and flat from front to back? Now look at your horse - can you take a piece of 2x4 the length of your saddle, sit it on his back and have it follow the contour? If the answer is "yes" (and it is with many Warmbloods) then the gusset panel saddle is for you! If, however, your horse's back drops a little after his withers then slopes slightly upward toward his croup, your piece of 2x4 will contact his body only in the front and back. This is "bridging" and it can be as extreme as the 2x4 example or very subtle, resulting only in differentials of pressure. No matter how subtle it is it will be uncomfortable for the horse and will usually result in soreness and tightness in the loin area. Sensitive horses may object violently while more stoic individuals will probably become regular patients for equine chiropractors and massage therapists. |
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Left: Gusset Panel
Right: Traditional Panel
Frequently riders become concerned
whether the "banana" shape of traditional panels provide an optimum
amount of support for the horse. It's certainly true that gusset
panels have a greater surface area than traditional panels and the
question of support may indeed be an important factor if the rider is
a large, heavyweight person. But since the majority of dressage riders
are men and women of normal stature, this rarely causes any problem
for the horse and is certainly to be preferred to a heavy weight being
pressed into his loins.
Compare your horse's topline to the illustrations below - Thoroughbred type on the left and Warmblood type on the right. If he is shaped like the horse on the left, a gussetted panel is probably not a good choice.
Reflocking
When should my saddle be reflocked? The
answer to that is when and if it needs it! I have a 27 year old Passier
that has never been reflocked and doesn't need it yet! It has also never
given a horse a moment's discomfort in his back.
You will be able to tell if your saddle
needs reflocking. You'll one day notice that leather of the panels seems
almost to have "grown." It will begin to bag and sag and perhaps to
wrinkle. If you do not have excess space in the panels and you bring
your saddle in for reflocking, where is the saddler supposed to put the
new material?
When your saddle requires reflocking, be
sure to chose a qualified craftsman for the job. A poorly reflocked
panel will have lumps that will cause uneven pressure and discomfort for
your horse.
Saddle Care
Frequent oiling is not necessary to insure
good service from your saddle. As a matter of fact, precisely the
opposite is true. Americans tend to over oil their tack while in Europe
oil is used very infrequently. Regular cleaning with a quality glycerin
soap will maintain your saddle in top condition - keeping the leather
supple yet sturdy. If the leather in your saddle begins to feel dry or
stiff from use or neglect, use a quality leather oil product sparingly.
Exceptions
There are always exceptions and I try not
to say "always" or "never," for when I do I'm sure to immediately meet a
horse or rider who gives the lie to every rule. However, if you follow
these guidelines and use good common sense, as well as observing the way
your horse reacts to a new saddle, you'll probably not stray far in your
efforts to find a fit for both you and your horse. Good luck!
Connie Micheletti
? 1997
Tack In The Box
More Resources
There is another excellent article on
Saddle Fitting @ Free &Easy Saddles which discusses the movement of
the horse in relation to saddle fit
Saddle Fit
article from 'The Horse'
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